Ice & mixte climbing / Climb | tomasmuellerguide

Ice climbing in Chamonix

There are a few easily accessible ice parks in Chamonix just a 20 minute walk from the car parking and also other icefalls that need ski touring to make the approach.

Period - Itinerary

DECEMBER to MARCH

Duration: 1 day or more

The actual conditions of a certain icefall can change day by day. More than in other mountain activities choosing the right objective is essential and requires good expertise. We will find the right icefall to climb and we have to be flexible.

As an example we describe the "Cascade de l'EMHM", 1 day

We take the Grand Montets lift and we ski on slopes and then in the forest to the top of the climb. We rappel the route and climb the 3 pitches up to WI 4+. Back to the skis and ski back down.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

From WI 4 to WI 6. Multipitch routes.

*for easier climbing I recommend the Ice Climbing Course

Endurance 2/5

The approaches aren't long for most of the ice falls

Price - include/not include

280.- EUR per person for a group of 2

500.- EUR for 1 person

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear
(It's possible to hire your ice axes, crampons, harness and helmet directly)

Not include

Personal gear
Lift ticket
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Ice climbing in Cogne

The Cogne area is a paradise for ice climbers. Dozens of beautiful waterfalls get frozen in the cold months. The fact of being at the very end of the road, the access to the climbs which is moslty straightforward and the italian little town atmosphere, makes it the best choise for a ice climbing trip.

Period - Itinerary

DECEMBER to MARCH

Duration: I recommend at least 2 days, as coming all the way here for one day seems too short.

As an example for 3 days

Day 1 - we arrive to the little village of Lillaz and climb "Pattinaggio artistico" WI 3+ 5 pitches as a warm up day. Hotel in Lillaz

Day 2 - we drive for about 15 minutes to Valnontey and climb one of the main classic ice falls such as "Mondey Money" WI 4+, "Patri" WI 5 or "Repentance Super" WI 6. Big day out and back to the hotel.

Day 3 - we hike from the hotel to "Lillaz gulley" WI 4 M4 or "Stella Artice" WI 5 and back for lunch and drive back.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

From WI 3 to WI 6. Multipitch routes.

Endurance 2/5

The approaches are around 1h - 1h½

Price - include/not include

280.- EUR per person for a group of 2 per day

500.- EUR for 1 person per day

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear
(It's possible to hire your ice axes, crampons, harness and helmet directly)

Not include

Personal gear
Hotel and half board
Drive expenses from Chamonix
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Ice climbing in Kandersteg

This little swiss town is surrounded by long and steep ice falls. In less than half an hour approach the choise is big, as well as the climbs. Not the best place if you're novice in this activity.

Period - Itinerary

DECEMBER to MARCH

Duration: 1 day or more

Many good icefalls here:

Pingu WI5
Arbonium WI5
Rattenpissoir WI5
Namenlos WI4+
Blue Magic WI5+
Rubenzahl WI6
Metro WI6
Crack Baby WI6

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

Only for very experienced ice climbers, as grades start at WI5. Multipitch routes.

Endurance 2/5

The approach is only half an hour but the icefalls are 6/7 pitches.

Price - include/not include

650.- CHF per day

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not include

Personal gear
Hotel and half board if multiple days
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Cherè gulley, Triagle du Tacul

This is the classic ice gulley of Chamonix. From the midi top station is visible and not far away. In winter we usually need skis for the approach.

Period - Itinerary

SEPTEMBER TO MAY

Duration: 1 day (about 6 hours)

We take the lift from Chamonix to the top of the Aiguille du Midi at 3800m. We descend the steep ridge into the glacier. A 45 minutes approach bring us to the base of the climb. We will use skis in the winter when there's deep snow. 5 pitches of ice with mixte sections and 5 rappels back down. We get back to the Midi station.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

The route is graded AI 4. Previous experience on this activity required. Comfortable on multipitch climbing and rappels.

Endurance 3/5

The approach isn't long. But it's a continuous effort in altitude and in probably cold conditions.

Price - include/not include

300.- EUR per person for a group of 2

500.- EUR for 1 person

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not include

Personal gear
Lift ticket
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Vent du dragon, Aig du Midi

As we get out of the Midi lift the access to the climb is straight forward. 5 steep rappels from the bridge and we're at the base of the route. From there the only way out is from the top.

Period - Itinerary

SEPTEMBER TO MAY

Duration: 1 day (about 6 hours)

We take the lift from Chamonix to the top of the Aiguille du Midi at 3800m. Straight from the top we do 5 rappels into the Cunningham couloir. From there we start climbing the route, which in 5 pitches takes us to the last part of the Cosmiques ridge. We follow the ridge up back to the cable car station.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

The route is graded M5+. As we start doing the rappels and then we have to climb out, we need to be sure to have the right experience to climb out.

Endurance 2/5

No approach at all. But it's a 5 pitches sustained effort in altitude and in likely cold conditions.

Price - include/not include

500.- EUR for 1 person

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not include

Personal gear
Lift ticket
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Rive gauche d'Argentière

This is a jewel in the heart of Grands Montets ski resort. So close from the lifts but completely hidden. And so many good options for ice, mixte, dry..

Period - Itinerary

DECEMBER TO APRIL

We climb here when the Grand Montets lift is open during the winter season. The best season is usually from January to mid March

Duration: 1 day

From the Herse lift in Grand Montets we ski to the top of the climbs. A couple of rappels to be at the base of the climb.

The classic routes are

Deferlante 4
Mini couloir 4+
Home wet home 4+
Bringing home the beacon M6+

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

Depends on the route but steep ice around 70° or 80°

Endurance 2/5

Short approach on skis.

Price - include/not include

280.- EUR per person for a group of 2

500.- EUR for 1 person

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not include

Personal gear
Lift ticket
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Tour d'Aï, Leysin

From the winter ski resort of Leysin this rocky mountain is so attractive. In summer there are beautiful rock routes on this perfect limestone. But in winter the mixte/frozen turf routes are less known but definitely not less beautiful.

Period - Itinerary

DECEMBER TO MARCH

Duration: 1 day

From Leysin we take the lift to the top of the mountain and we ski to the base of the climb.

Some classic routes are

Le Chamois M2
Ambiance Ben Nevis M3
Leysin Culte M4
Leysin Contournable M6+
Voie Harlin M6+

After the climb we ski all the way down to Leysin. We don't need ski-tour set up.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

Good choise of difficulty. Multipitch climbing. Rappel

Endurance 2/5

Short approach on skis.

Price - include/not include

650.- CHF per day

Include

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not include

Personal gear
Lift ticket
Everything else not written on 'include'

CONTACT

Ice climbing course in Chamonix

A course is the best way to discover this activity or to have a refresher if you haven't practiced in a while. Possible all year round. In the winter we will choose one the Ice Parks like Bérard or la Crèmerie and in the summer we'll go to the Mer de Glace glacier.