Multipitch climbing in Chamonix valley

The Chamonix valley offers many crags for good rock climbing on limestone or on gneiss. La Maladière, les Vuardes, la Croix de Fer, Barberine, Chéserys, etc.

Period - Itinerary

MARCH to NOVEMBER 

Duration: 1 day or more..

Within half an hour drive from Chamonix we get many possibilities, then no lifts, just hike to the route.

Some multipitch routes:

  • Indianna Jaune 6b+, Maladière 
  • La Costa 6a+, les Vuardes 
  • Ni dieu ni maître 6c, Croix de Fer
  • Cacao girls 5c/6a, Barberine
  • La fée des Droides 5b, Chéserys 
  • Voie Jaune 4c, Chéserys 

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

The easier routes are in the 5a/c range. Climbing in the 6a/c range gives you more possibilities.

Endurance 2/5

Usually short approaches 

Price - include/not include

250.- EUR per person for a group of 2

500.- EUR for 1 person

Include

  • IFMGA Mountain Guide 
  • All team gear

Not include

  • Personal gear
  • Everything else not written on 'include'

Grand Capucin 3838 mts

This steep granite spire is the dream of every rock climber. Perfect rock, steep, cracks.. people camp with tents at the bottom during the good weather in summer as the routes are pretty long and doing them lift to lift is quite a challenge.

Period - Itinerary

JUNE to SEPTEMBER 

Duration: 2 days. 

Overnight at the Torino hut. About 1½ hour glacier approach and 400 mts of climbing. Steep rappels.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

  • Suisse route 6b
  • Bonatti route 6c
  • L'écho des alpages 7a
  • Voyage selon Gulliver 7b

..are some of the main routes

Technical level 4/5

Endurance 3/5

Price - include/not include

500.- EUR per person for a group of 2

800.- EUR for 1 person

Include

  • IFMGA Mountain Guide 
  • All team gear

Not include

  • Personal gear
  • Lifts
  • Hut expenses 
  • Everything else not written on 'include'

Aiguille du Blaitière

From Chamonix, taking the Midi lift to the mid station "Plan de l'aiguille" we have access to a lot of good granite routes. The Blaitière has several routes on the Pilier Rouge as "l'eau rance d'Arabie" 6b or "Nabot Léon" 6a, further on the West face "Fidel fiasco" 6c it's a classic and the West Ridge combination climbs for 900 meters all the way to the summit.

Period - Itinerary

JUNE to SEPTEMBER 

Duration: 1 day. 

From Chamonix we take the lift to Plan de l'Aiguille and hike on the moraine for about 45 minutes to the base of the Pilier Rouge du Blaitière. 7 pitches in 6b for "l'eau rance d'Arabie"

We descend on rappels.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

6b on the crux pitch, sometimes snow slopes at 40° for the approach 

Endurance 3/5

A 6 hour day

Price - include/not include

500.- EUR

Include

  • IFMGA Mountain Guide 
  • All team gear

Not include

  • Personal gear
  • Lifts
  • Everything else not written on 'include'

Petit Clocher du Portalet

This steep granite spire in the Swiss side of the Mont Blanc range has some excellent routes of high quality granite. The "south east ridge" 6b+ and "État de choc" 7a are some of the classics.

Period - Itinerary

JUNE to SEPTEMBER 

Duration: 2 days.

From Chamex-Lac in Swiss Vallis we take a chairlift and hike to the cabane d'Orny. From there next day we climb the route and get back.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

  • 6c for "SE ridge"
  • 7a for"État de choc"

Endurance 3/5

A 6/8 hour day

Price - include/not include

800.- CHF

Include

  • IFMGA Mountain Guide 
  • All team gear

Not include

  • Personal gear
  • Lifts
  • Hut expenses 
  • Everything else not written on 'include'

Contamine, Pointe Lachenal

One of the classic high quality granite routes is the Contamine at the Pointe Lachenal. 8 pitches up to 6b with a glacier approach on the menu. 

Period - Itinerary

JUNE to SEPTEMBER 

Duration: 1 day. 

We take the Aiguille du Midi lift, descend the ridge to the glacier and hike for about 30 minutes to the base of the climb. 7/8 pitches around 5+ with a crux pitch 6b on cracks. We descend with crampons and axe the normal route on Lachenal and back to the lift station.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

6b on the crux pitch, icy slopes at 40° on crampons

Endurance 3/5

A 6/8 hour day

Price - include/not include

500.- EUR

Include

  • IFMGA Mountain Guide 
  • All team gear

Not include

  • Personal gear
  • Lifts
  • Everything else not written on 'include'

Brévent - Flégère

Only a lift away from Chamonix the playground here is big and varied, routes from 4a to 7.. and from 2 to 12 pitches. And the view into the Mont Blanc range is the best of the valley.

Period - Itinerary

JUNE to SEPTEMBER 

Duration: 1 day or more..

From Chamonix or Les Praz we take the lift to Brévent or Flégère

Some multipitch routes:

  • Frison Roche, 6a
  • La fin de Babylone, 6c
  • La somone, 4c
  • Ex-libris, 6b trad
  • Mani puliti, 5b

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 3/5

The easier routes are in the 4a/c range. Climbing in the 6a/c range gives you more possibilities.

Endurance 2/5

Usually short approaches 

Price - include/not include

250.- EUR per person for a group of 2

500.- EUR for 1 person

Include

  • IFMGA Mountain Guide 
  • All team gear

Not include

  • Personal gear
  • Lift
  • Everything else not written on 'include'